Tips and things to check if you have ignition problems:

Trouble shooting is simple if you remember that the job of the timer is to ground the coils at the proper time to fire the cylinders. The top terminals on the coil box are where the wires to the timer are connected, and each is grounded at the proper time by the timer.

Check the coils to make sure they buzz when grounded. Turn on the ignition to “battery” and touch a jumper wire from ground (engine block) to each top coil terminal on the firewall. If the coil does not fire, check the coil or connections. The bottom connections in the coil box supply power to the coils. Clean and make sure the connection “tabs” are bent up or out a bit to make connection with the coil. Sometimes the connections on the back are not in line with the coil connections and a coil may have to be shimmed to one side with cardboard to make proper connection.

If all coils are firing when grounded at the coil box, check the wiring to the timer by grounding each of the wires at the timer to assure that each coil buzzes. To be sure no wires are grounded at the timer or contacts in the timer are shorted, remove the timer case from the engine and with the wires attached, touch the case to the engine block. If a coil buzzes, one of the wires or contacts is grounded. Touch each terminal to ground and the proper coil should buzz.

Also, just because a coil buzzes is not proof that it is working properly. If a coil is drawing too much current, or if the coil produces a weak spark, the engine may not run properly. The Model T Ford Repair Manual gives excellent guidance on how to check and adjust the coils.

The old style seal with the tin or brass shield may also cause “false grounding” of the coils by touching some of the contacts in the timer. It is best to discard the old seal and shield and use the modern CR 9876 seal. Note that all housings may not provide a tight fit for this seal, but a bit of RTV sealant will assure a good tight fit. The seal can be more easily installed if a piece of shim stock (or tin can) is rolled up, placed inside the seal and used as a guide to get the seal over the camshaft nut.

Another common problem is that the hole in the camshaft that locates the rotor is drilled all the way through on some camshafts and so it is easy to get the timing off by 180 degrees. If the engine refuses to start and fires back through the carburetor, try re-positioning the rotor by 180 degrees. (This is the case on my 1912.)

Some older timing gears have a thicker web than the originals and the cam gear securing nut may protrude out past the camshaft boss on which the rotor seats. The rotor may then be forced into a recess under the cam gear nut and then bind the flapper. A simple shim made from 16 gage wire in a 9/16 inch diameter circle may work in an emergency, but proper spacers are available from Frank’s Timer Service. In severe cases, the position of the rotor may not be centered properly with the contacts in the case. A special “short” rotor is available for those cases. Please contact the factory (info below), and we’ll ship one right out to you. Click here for more information.

If you are re-assembling the front cover after changing a timing gear, be sure the cover casting is installed with the camshaft centered in the hole. A gauge is available from Frank’s Timer Service to check it. If the camshaft is not concentric with the timer case mounting ring, the timing will be affected.

Our Goal is Complete Customer Satisfaction and smooth running, dependable Model T Fords, so please do not hesitate to call with any problems. See the website below or contact the undersigned for additional useful publications and information.

User assumes all risks and responsibility.

Frank’s Timer Service, 2251 Morgan Lane, Ingleside, TX 78362

Telephone: 361-230-0318, e-mail: Frank@andersontimer.com

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